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The final goal of this study is to virtualize draping. Draping which is one of the methods to design paper patterns for clothing requires much labor and time. The sub-goal of this study is to construct a system in which the fundamental functions of draping are equipped.

The system is realized in the virtual world by integrating the virtualized elements of real draping. The cloth is modeled by mechanical formulation, and the shape is determined by numerical calculation. The hand is geometrically modeled, and the captured motions of the hand and fingers are applied to the model. The model dress form is made from the data by measurement. The system in which darts can be made in the virtual space is constructed by integrating the models.

It is confirmed that the cloth model in the virtual world can be manipulated by the motions of the fingers in the real world. And it is suggested that it is possible to design practical paper patterns for clothing by adding functions to the system.

We are aiming at the system to design paper patterns by the movements of the fingers. With this system, it is expected that the efficiency in designing paper patterns is much improved, and it becomes possible to design clothing that fits individuals efficiently.

Seam pucker is one of the most important aspects of garment quality in the sewing process. Recently, automatic sewing systems have been developed and seam pucker or other defects would have to be automatically inspected in these systems. Two systems of automatic, contactless measurement of seam pucker have been developed. One of the measurement systems, with which surface shape of seam pucker was measured, is based on laser technology. Intensity of reflected ultrasonic wave is measured using another measurement system. The laser measurement system has been applied to moderate or severe seam pucker and the ultrasonic wave system has been applied to the accurate evaluation of very small seam pucker. The result of the evaluation by machine has to match the result of subjective evaluation by humans. To verify this, samples of seam pucker were evaluated using five judges. With the measurement data of surface shape of these samples, the power spectra of the wave form of seam pucker are calculated. Analyses and correlates the relationship between objective measurement and subjective evaluation by discriminant analysis, with the result of subjective evaluation and the power spectra of the samples. Having obtained these relationships, the degree of seam pucker can be measured objectively by both systems.

Draping is one method used in clothing design. It is important to virtualize draping in real time, and virtual cloth handling is a key technology for this purpose. A mouse is often used for real-time cloth handling in many studies. However, gesture manipulation is more realistic than movements using the mouse. The purpose of this paper is to demonstrate virtual cloth manipulation using hand gestures in the real world.

In this study, the authors demonstrate three types of manipulation: moving, cutting, and attaching. The user’s hand coordinates are obtained with a Kinect, and the cloth model is manipulated by them. The cloth model is moved based on the position of the hand coordinates. The cloth model is cut along a cut line calculated from the hand coordinates. In attaching the cloth model, it is mapped to a dummy model and then part of the cloth model is fixed and another part is released.

This method can move the cloth model according to the motion of the hands. The authors have succeeded in cutting the cloth model based on the hand trajectory. The cloth model can be attached to the dummy model and its form is changed along the dummy model shape.

Cloth handling in many studies is based on indirect manipulation using a mouse. In this study, the cloth model is manipulated according to hand motion in the real world in real time.

The body model which has been utilized in our clothing simulation does not deform and gives a boundary condition for mechanical calculation. To determine the shape of clothing in the case where clothing and body mechanically interact with each other, the body model used for this purpose has to be deformable. In this study, basic techniques for realization of the deformable body model were investigated. A tetrahedron was defined as a fundamental element for mechanical calculation of solid, and it was formulated with ordinal strain. Four kinds of cubes consisting of six tetrahedrons were defined as basic geometrical elements for constructing solids. Two kinds of cantilevers were constructed from the cubes and mechanical simulation was carried out with proper mechanical properties. A method of estimating internal mechanical properties of the human body was tested. The method is a modification of the simulation and is one of inverse problems. Treatment of collision is required for the simulation in which clothing and body mechanically interact with each other. The treatment of collision is based on a triangular element, and the processes consist of its detection and resolution. Simulation of a right cylinder solid wound by fabric like pipe was carried out to check collision treatment.

In order to mass‐customize clothes, it is essential to consider individual body shape using computerized 3D body models. This paper describes the development of an interactive body model that can be altered with individual body shape for the purpose of computerized pattern making.Design/methodology/approach – For altering perimeter and length for contouring individual body shapes, a cross‐sectional line model is proposed arranged at regular intervals. This model is easy for controlling body shape and also for calculating length and perimeters. Shape control lines (SCL) are used to modify the shape of the model in order to adjust the model to represent different body shapes. SCL are used to modify the perimeter of the cross‐sectional line by scaling method with different center position and scaling ratio in a horizontal direction.Findings – In order to investigate whether virtual body models can be adequately substituted for real physical models, the perimeter and cross‐section areas of shape control lines were compared, which resulted in an agreement ratio of over 93 percent. This fact supports the adaptability and potential usefulness of the body model.Originality/value – This research makes it possible for customers to modify the body model to match their own body shape during internet or catalogue shopping; it can also enable apparel manufacturers to communicate with their customers by describing the body model to fit on the screen while in the ordering process.

This paper aims to describe the development of an interactive body model that can be altered to match individual body perimeter, postures and depth for the purpose of computerized pattern making.

Construction of the posture and depth adjustable body model requires the extraction of ten points, adjustment of coordinate points, linking of points by spline curves, control of section lengths and selectability of three hip types. Front to back depth of the model is adjusted by scaling ratio.

Good results were achieved in modelling back shapes, such as flat shape and stoop shape, and of modelling various hip shapes, such as flat shape and protruding shape. Also the presented body model is able to accurately simulate individual depth of bust, waist and hips. Silhouette comparison between the fully adjusted virtual body model and real body shapes shows an almost perfect match. A primary dialog for altering perimeter, length and depth, and a posture dialog for controlling back and hip shapes was developed.

By making fine adjustments to posture and depth, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties. This system could, therefore, be seen as a major step forward in pattern making.

This paper argues for the immediate use of Kansei engineering to help deal with the chaotic situation of poorly implemented and disconnected technologies. A theoretical criticism of the current industrial capitalism, together with the promotion of a new post‐industrial form of capitalism, lays the foundation for an explanation of how this transition can be achieved through a proper understanding of Kansei. A detailed explanation of the interactive production system apparel demonstrates the benefits to both manufacturers and consumers. The paper concludes that the application to apparel is just one of the many potential applications to improving the lifestyle and enjoyment of individuals in the entire society.

This paper aims to describe the development of a method of constructing three‐dimensional (3D) human body shapes that include a degree of ease for purpose of computerized pattern making.

The body shape could be made with ease allowance to an individual's unique body shape using sweep method and a convex method. And then generates tight skirt patterns for the reconstructed virtual body shape using a computerized pattern making system.

This paper obtains individual patterns using individually reconstructed 3D body shapes by computerized pattern development. In these patterns, complex curved lines such as waist lines and dart lines are created automatically using the developed method. The method is successfully used to make variations of a tight skirt to fit different size women. The author also used the method to make other skirts of various designs.

The method described in this paper is useful for making patterns and then garments, without the need for the garments to be later adjusted for the subject.

In the trend from mass production to mass customization, more flexible production systems are required. In the clothing field, many studies about automatization of sewing processes have been done into producing small amounts of various kinds of products. The purpose of this paper is to propose a versatile guiding mechanism of a cloth for an automatic sewing system.

Real sewing processes were referenced for the mechanism, and curved stitch is formed holding a point on a cloth. This mechanism consists of a solenoid for holding a cloth and a roller to prevent deformation of the cloth. When a cloth is sewn with the mechanism, the trajectory of the stitch is unstable because of anisotropy of a cloth. A precise trajectory was obtained by adding a device to control the pressure of the roller for holding a cloth and keeping a tension properly applied to a cloth.

It was found out that shearing property is the most related to the stability of sewing trajectory. If the tension for guidance applied to a cloth is constant, deformation of the cloth was observed and it was the cause of unstableness of sewing trajectory. By controlling the tension for guidance applied to a cloth properly according to the direction of the cloth, precise sewing trajectory was obtained.

There have been some studies in which sewing conditions were dynamically controlled according to the mechanical properties of a cloth. To these studies, here it was proposed that sewing conditions were kept constant by controlling the guidance of a cloth according to its mechanical properties.